Spiti in winter: an honest guide

Winter changes Spiti completely. The northern road over Kunzum La closes, the visitors leave and the valley turns white and silent. For a few months it belongs entirely to the people who live there — and to anyone prepared to make the journey.

It's one of the most memorable trips we run. It's also not for everyone, so here's an honest look at what to expect.

Getting there

In winter the only way in is from Shimla, along the Sutlej through Kinnaur. The road stays open most of the time, but heavy snow can close it for a day or two. We break the journey with nights in Sangla or Kalpa and Nako, which also helps you acclimatise gently.

The cold

Daytime temperatures in Kaza hover around freezing, with bright sun that feels surprisingly warm. Nights are a different story — –15 °C to –25 °C is normal in January and February. Homestays heat one or two rooms with a traditional stove, and that's where everyone gathers in the evening.

Bring the warmest jacket you own, and then a few more layers.

Water and bathrooms

This is the part that surprises people most. Water pipes freeze, so most homes switch to traditional dry compost toilets and bring hot water in buckets for washing. Showers are rare. If that sounds like an adventure, you'll love it; if it sounds like a deal-breaker, a summer trip might suit you better.

What makes it worth it

• Silence and space. You may have Key Monastery's morning prayers almost to yourself.
• Village life. Winter is the season of festivals, visits and long evenings by the stove.
• Snow leopards. The cold brings them lower, and local spotters around Kibber know where to look. Sightings are never guaranteed, but they do happen.
• The light. Clear blue skies over a white valley make for extraordinary photographs.

What to pack

• A down jacket rated for –20 °C or colder, plus thermal base layers.
• Insulated, waterproof boots with good grip, and warm socks.
• A warm hat, neck gaiter, liner gloves and thick mittens.
• Sunglasses, high-SPF sunscreen and lip balm — the sun is strong.
• A reusable water bottle and an insulated flask.

Who it's for

Winter Spiti suits travellers who are reasonably fit, comfortable with very basic facilities and curious about how people live in extreme places. You don't need to be a trekker, but you do need patience — the mountains set the schedule in winter.