Permits for Ladakh, Zanskar and Spiti, simply explained

Much of the Himalaya we travel in sits close to international borders, so some areas need a permit before you can visit. The rules can sound complicated, but in practice they're straightforward — and on our journeys, we handle the paperwork. Rules do change from time to time, so treat this as a general guide; we always check the current position before your trip.

Ladakh

Leh town, the Indus valley monasteries and the road to Kargil don't need a permit. Many of the most beautiful places do, including Nubra and Turtuk, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Hanle and the Changthang plateau.

• Indian citizens need a protected-area permit, issued online through the Ladakh administration, plus small environment and welfare fees.
• Foreign nationals also need a protected-area permit, usually arranged through a registered local operator. Some places close to the border have extra restrictions for foreign visitors.

We apply once we have a copy of your ID — a passport for foreign nationals, or any government photo ID for Indian citizens — and carry printed copies with us on the road.

Zanskar

The main Zanskar valley, including Padum, Karsha and Phuktal, usually doesn't need a permit. Winter treks such as the Chadar have their own rules, including fees, insurance and a medical check, which we arrange as part of the trip.

Spiti and Kinnaur

Indian citizens don't need a permit for the Kinnaur–Spiti road. Foreign nationals need an inner-line permit for the border stretch around Nako and Sumdo, which can be issued in advance. We take care of this before you arrive.

Bhutan

Bhutan works differently. Indian citizens enter with a passport or voter ID and receive a permit through their tour operator; other nationalities need a visa, arranged in advance. Everyone pays a nightly Sustainable Development Fee at the applicable rate.

A few practical tips

• Carry your original ID at all times — there are checkposts on many roads.
• Keep a few printed copies of your permit; mobile signal isn't always available.
• Don't stray from the permitted route, and always follow instructions at checkposts.